Teflon tape to seal threads?

I have a Parker 51 that was leaking at the hood. It had been serviced and reassembled without the hood threads being sealed. I know that there are a number of materials recommended for thread sealant, but I was eager to use what I had on hand: Teflon tape, as used for plumbing. I took a short piece of tape, cut it in half lengthwise, wrapped the threads and replaced the hood. It has been a couple of weeks now with no sign of of a leak.

Did I stumble upon a new way to seal threads?

--David

I have a Parker 51 that was leaking at the hood. It had been serviced and reassembled without the hood threads being sealed. I know that there are a number of materials recommended for thread sealant, but I was eager to use what I had on hand: Teflon tape, as used for plumbing. I took a short piece of tape, cut it in half lengthwise, wrapped the threads and replaced the hood. It has been a couple of weeks now with no sign of of a leak.

Did I stumble upon a new way to seal threads?

--David

David;

Been discussed a lot elsewhere. I've never used it but, from what I understand there are better methods. Further, and this is very off putting, the tape while thin can be enough to cause too much pressure and cause items to crack. Might not happen in your situation but, it gets me back to the fact that restorers use other methods as they are effective and safer. Ron Zorn would be great to answer this.

Roger W.

Roger hits on the primary problem, which is cracking the part. Teflon tape is used to seal some pretty substantial threads on large pipes. It doesn't adapt well to the fine threads of pens. The plastic on the Parker 51 might be able to take it for a while, but a similar attempt on something like a Parker 41 or 61 would result in a crack PDQ.

The thing I like to use on my 51s to seal the hoods is rubber cement. It doesn't harden but it seals really nicely. Many professionals like to use shellac because it prevents amateurs like us from disassembling the hoods and screwing something up.

Yikes! I hadn't thought about the pressure from the thickness, albeit slight of the Teflon tape. Time to hunt up some rubber cement!

Yikes! I hadn't thought about the pressure from the thickness, albeit slight of the Teflon tape. Time to hunt up some rubber cement!

No No No. Please don't use rubber cement ( This was one of Dubiel's bad ideas). Some use Ron's tread sealant, I think shellac is best on 51 hoods. It definitely gives a problem free seal.

Please don't hate me John D.

Edited by Jim B, 23 April 2012 - 02:57 AM.

I was talking to another restorer and rubber cement had been popular with snorkels some time ago - he no longer uses it. Come to find out you don't really need to seal snorkels at all. If you do need to seal something get what Ron has as that is what Sheaffer was actually using. I understand you have to warm it up a little to use it but it doesn't break down like rubber cement will over time. I do a lot of understanding - I further understand that sacs are lasting a lot longer now so thinking that if the rubber cement breaks down you have to get to the sac anyway - chances are the sac is still going to be good so you should use the better sealant.

Roger W.

The only two items you should use to seal the hood on a Parker 51 are shellac (first choice by virtually all of us who restore pens professionally) or Ron Zorn's sealant which was not developed for hood sealing but can be used for it if it is all you have....

Roger or Jim, can you explain further on why rubber cement is a bad idea? Roger, you mention it "breaks down" but I don't understand what that means. Can you go into more detail?

Couple thoughts regarding rubber cement...

Rubber cement is a polymer in a solvent, as in latex in acetone. The solvent keeps the latex (rubber) in a fluid state... so what's it likely to do to a rubber sac?

Rubber cement has a couple applications that it is ideal for and is very good at. It's a temporary adhesive that is meant to be used primarily on paper. It's specifically not meant for plastics.

Tim

Rubber cement contains some pretty heavy-duty solvents -- not good for you, and definitely not prudent to use on plastics.

Parker's thread sealant was supposedly a mixture of castor oil and rosin.

http://barnyard.syr....atica/pens.html about half way down the page

Another thought on teflon tape: good luck getting it off of the threads later, when you will want to. It creates a heckuva mess and is hard to get all of it off. Been there and done that.

I thought about opening a new post but saw this one.

Can I resurrect it ?

You guys had been referring to P51, but what about a safety pen ?

All the safety pen has to keep back the ink is the threads on the barrel.

Too much pressure from turning tight may crack the old rubber barrel.

On the other hand, every time I use my Waterman #8 safety, ink is on my fingers (like a year 4 schoolboy I once was 45 years ago).

Would "a bit" of plumber's Teflon help there at all - or the similarity with P51 still applies ?

Thanks

Tri

Teflon tape really has no applications in pen repair. The threads at the back end of the barrel of a safety pen should be sealed, either with shellac or with a rosin-based compound. I use the latter myself. The joint there will leak if not sealed, that is true.

Teflon tape really has no applications in pen repair. The threads at the back end of the barrel of a safety pen should be sealed, either with shellac or with a rosin-based compound. I use the latter myself. The joint there will leak if not sealed, that is true.

David

Thank you

Are the shellac and/or the rosin-based compounds reversible in terms of the seal ?

Can you re-open them after application, with or without heat application?

No long term damage ?

Where can a novice obtain shellac or rosin-based compounds ? (never heard of rosin before)

Thanks again

Tri

Shellac ( obtained from your local paint shop, orange shellac is the one and mixed with metho makes it usable as a sealant/glue) needs heat to soften it, so it's good for a more permanent fix such as attaching ink sacs or other "bits" that your not going to undo in the next "however many years". Now rosin, easily bought from your local music instrument store as it's used on violin, viola string etc ( and in rosin cored solder), when melted and mixed with castor oil becomes a "softer" product ( some string instruments use softer rosins as opposed to the harder ones) and with enough castor oil it becomes a very sticky, thick liquid.....and thread sealant !! To make your own you need a block of rosin , castor oil and heat. Use a small quantity of oil and mix in with heat ( use a heat gun and a glass jar that you intend to store it in), with enough heat it mixes to a "honey" like substance, let cool and if it sets solid add a bit more oil and repeat until you end up with a very sticky liquid at room temperature. For the average hobbyist you will now have a live times supply!! These rosin based sealant remain "wet" for a long time , how many years I don't know but they do eventually "dry".
With your safety pen, and eyedropper in general that leak from the threads, the best option ( I've found anyway, there may well be better ones) is a bit of silicone grease available from most auto shops ( mine came from "Super Cheap Auto"). I haven't noticed any problem with using it on hard rubber yet but those more experienced may be able to say if it's safe or not.

Regards
Hugh

Shellac ( obtained from your local paint shop, orange shellac is the one and mixed with metho makes it usable as a sealant/glue) needs heat to soften it, so it's good for a more permanent fix such as attaching ink sacs or other "bits" that your not going to undo in the next "however many years". Now rosin, easily bought from your local music instrument store as it's used on violin, viola string etc ( and in rosin cored solder), when melted and mixed with castor oil becomes a "softer" product ( some string instruments use softer rosins as opposed to the harder ones) and with enough castor oil it becomes a very sticky, thick liquid.....and thread sealant !! To make your own you need a block of rosin , castor oil and heat. Use a small quantity of oil and mix in with heat ( use a heat gun and a glass jar that you intend to store it in), with enough heat it mixes to a "honey" like substance, let cool and if it sets solid add a bit more oil and repeat until you end up with a very sticky liquid at room temperature. For the average hobbyist you will now have a live times supply!! These rosin based sealant remain "wet" for a long time , how many years I don't know but they do eventually "dry".
With your safety pen, and eyedropper in general that leak from the threads, the best option ( I've found anyway, there may well be better ones) is a bit of silicone grease available from most auto shops ( mine came from "Super Cheap Auto"). I haven't noticed any problem with using it on hard rubber yet but those more experienced may be able to say if it's safe or not.

Regards
Hugh

I have a jar of Silicone grease.

May try that next time I use my safeties unless someone has some smart objection(s) to it.

Definitely less demanding than making up the rosin sealant which I guess may be too good a sealant if not prepared well. That may render my safeties to a one-barrel writing instrument !

Thanks

Tri

The rosin sealant is actually much less likely to cause difficulty when reopening, since it stays soft and sticky. Shellac isn't so much of a problem with hard rubber, though, since hard rubber can normally be heated without much risk, unlike celluloid (though if the end of the safety barrel is chased, you will have to take care not to erase the chasing). An alternative here is beeswax, though silicone grease should also be fine.

PS Though it may take a little bit of effort to get the rosin and castor oil and mix it all up, it's definitely worth it. You only need to do it once, and as Hugh states, it will last you for years and years.

Edited by David Nishimura, 16 July 2012 - 01:34 PM.

The rosin sealant is actually much less likely to cause difficulty when reopening, since it stays soft and sticky. Shellac isn't so much of a problem with hard rubber, though, since hard rubber can normally be heated without much risk, unlike celluloid (though if the end of the safety barrel is chased, you will have to take care not to erase the chasing). An alternative here is beeswax, though silicone grease should also be fine.

PS Though it may take a little bit of effort to get the rosin and castor oil and mix it all up, it's definitely worth it. You only need to do it once, and as Hugh states, it will last you for years and years.

Gents,

If the rosin sealant we discuss is akin to Sheaffer's original recipe for section sealant, I believe Ron Zorn sells it pre mixed at nominal cost

regards

david

I use shellac from the Fountain Pen Hospital!

Greg Minuskin
greg@gregminuskin.com
www.gregminuskin.com