9 replies to this topic

[BamaPen]

I just had a Triumph style nib for my Sheaffer Snorkel pen re-tipped by Greg Minuskin and I'm ready to screw it back onto the feed. When I removed it, it unscrewed rather easily, no heat needed. So, should I apply some thread sealant before screwing it on again?

[david i]

I just had a Triumph style nib for my Sheaffer Snorkel pen re-tipped by Greg Minuskin and I'm ready to screw it back onto the feed. When I removed it, it unscrewed rather easily, no heat needed. So, should I apply some thread sealant before screwing it on again?

I... am not... a... restorer. But, I have many pens restored, to say the least

Thread sealant- the best out there being Ron Zorn's, taken from Sheaffer's original recipe- is optimal for threads. I'm not quite sure what's up when you say the nib screws on/off, as I don't fix the Triumphs myself. The nib unscrews or the whole section assembly?

I will ping Ron and Richard to get some input.

regards

David

[Hugh]

They don't leaked because the end of the thread seals itself against the point gasket, no need to seal them in place either . I don't seal the barrel either, although I do use a bit of silicone grease to keep it airtight, although I probably should buy some of Ron's sealant for that part.

Regards
Hugh

[BamaPen]

Thanks very much for the quick responses. Now for a further question:

First: The nib I had retipped came from this pen. All I did was to unscrew it from the feed and send it off for retipping. I'm certain that the retipping had no effect on the threaded end.

Second: I screwed the nib on and it either is going 270 degrees too far or not quite 90 degrees enough. It is not realigining with the feed by 90 degrees. If I stop short by 270 degrees to align with the feed, the nib is loose.

What shall I do???

[david i]

Thanks very much for the quick responses. Now for a further question:

First: The nib I had retipped came from this pen. All I did was to unscrew it from the feed and send it off for retipping. I'm certain that the retipping had no effect on the threaded end.

Second: I screwed the nib on and it either is going 270 degrees too far or not quite 90 degrees enough. It is not realigining with the feed by 90 degrees. If I stop short by 270 degrees to align with the feed, the nib is loose.

What shall I do???

Some of our readers can answer, but I did have dessert with Ron Zorn tonight. Expect he'll chime in when online tomorrow, if question not already answered.

regards

d

[Hugh]

Okay, the pen needs to opened up ( when the nib was put back onto the collar it went to a different spot than it was originally...it's most likely sealed on but you could try turning just the nib, it may tighten a bit more and the feed is aligned with the nib after by using a screw driver to turn it from the threaded end, look in and you will see a slot for the driver ) and the "snorkel" mechanism pulled out and rotated to fit. It has (the early models are different!!) 4 lugs on it allowing the mechanism to be rotated 90 degrees. Most likely the barrel will be sealed on and may need heat ( used with caution!!.. especially now a nice new tip has been put on). The other option is to send it away and get it done up, new point gasket, sac and O-ring...letting some else align it.

Regards
Hugh

[BamaPen]

OK, thanks...problem solved. Rotating the feed to align with the nib was the key. It will turn inside the collar to align. I did not realize that the collar and feed were two separate pieces. Live and learn...I rotated the feed and then rotated the snorkel to align it with the feed/nib and all is well. Thanks to all for your advice. I'm a happy camper tonight.

Greg Minuskin put a 0.7 mm stub on this nib. I've never had one before, so did not know quite what to expect. It is excessively smmmmoooth and encourages me to write bigger and with more flair. What great expression! I sent Greg two nibs for retipping. The other is a Conklin Toledo No. 2 which he made into a 0.5mm stub. I'll get it installed soon and see how the 0.5mm and 0.7mm stubs compare. Of course the Conklin should be a bit flexier than the Sheaffer Triumph (no flex at all) so that will make a difference as well.

I have a Sheaffer Snorkel 5B nib left over after all this if anyone needs one. It is a broad round nib and lays down a huge amount of ink. Too much for me, but just right for some other folks.

BamaPen

[Ron Z]

If the nib screws onto the collar, I would use a dab of shellac to secure it in place to the collar.

I disagree with Hugh. You should not use silicone grease here. You really do need to seal the threads before putting the nib into the section. The stuff to use is what Sheaffer used - a rosin based thread sealant. It seals better than anything else, releases at about 95 F, and keeps the nib from coming loose when you don't want it to. I make it with the same materials that Sheaffer did - I saw the mix when in the Sheaffer service center a couple of years ago.

It should also be used on Parker Vacumatics, and any other threads that you want to seal/secure, and want to come apart easily.

[BamaPen]

Thanks very much for all the responses. I've successfully put the nib on the pen and seem to have no problems.

[Hugh]

I disagree with Hugh.

Not a surprise to me , I'd take your advice over mine !! ......must buy some of that "stuff" you sell....

Regards
Hugh