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Moore Nib, Tine Overlap


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#1 Blotto

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 06:27 PM

One tine sits atop the other. I've gone into the breather hole with a shim and have been able to get them aligned, but after writing a bit, one tine snaps (I can both hear and feel it) back to overlap the other.
Short of sending it to a NibSmith, any suggestions?

#2 FmrLEO_GJ

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 10:41 PM

One tine sits atop the other. I've gone into the breather hole with a shim and have been able to get them aligned, but after writing a bit, one tine snaps (I can both hear and feel it) back to overlap the other.
Short of sending it to a NibSmith, any suggestions?


Hello

I am looking forward to any responses from the 'gun' nib guru's here also, as I have an old Mabie Todd Swan ED with a twisted nib also.
I don't think mine sounds / is twisted to the same degree, but the way it springs back is the same.

Hope a response comes through soon
Garth
Penguin, NW Tasmania, Australia

We will be forever known by the tracks we leave behind - Sitting Bull

#3 Richard

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 04:05 AM

If this is a firm Moore nib (often imprinted MANIFLEX), then you can probably spread the tines slightly. Hold the pen so that you're looking at the underside of the feed, with the nib pointing away from you. Place the tips of your index fingers on the exposed surface of the nib (facing away from you), and catch the shoulders (the corners at the widest part of the nib) with your thumbnails. Spread slightly, using your index fingers to support the nib. Don't get too rambunctious with this; it's easier to do more if you under-spread than it is to do less if you over-spread.

You can also spread an older, flexible nib this way, but you have to be VERY delicate, as they're much easier to bend.

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#4 Blotto

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Posted 01 October 2011 - 06:35 PM

Richard:
Many thanks for your generous help.
Here's the over lapped nib.

Posted Image

Unfortunately my fingers are not nimble enough to do the job. (I have difficulty just buttoning a shirt.) So last night I tried again with a shim.

Earlier attempts were with a .003 shim, drawn down from the breather hole to the tip. Then, using the shim as a lever, separating and repositioning the tines. But a .003 shim isn't rigid enough to do the job.
Last night I inserted a .005 shim at the tip horizontally, between the overlapped tines (That ain't easy when you don't have a hands-free loupe), rotated the shim vertically until the tines were even, then gently twisted the shim axially to slightly widen the spacing.The principle is basically the same as your recommendation, only using a tool for lack of functioning fingers.

By George, I think I did it!

I'll write with it some more and see. I'll try it again, if needed, but as you cautioned...less is more.

Thanks again.




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