28 replies to this topic

[JonSzanto]

Title should say it all: I realize that there are many occasions where an ultrasonic cleaner can be a safe and proper way to clean pen parts.

Under what circumstances and types of pen/materials should one NOT use an ultrasonic cleaner? I would very much like to learn the soft way, not the hard way, thanks.

[Jim B]

Never put Caesin pens in water.

It's ok to put HR sections in briefly but don't let them soak overnight or they will turn brown. In fact, in general, use an ultrasonic with Hard Rubber the way you would normally treat Hard rubber around water.

I wouldn't put cracked nibs in one either. Also caps with cracked lips. Also remember that many clips use parts which can rust so an ultrasonic may clean the inside of the cap beautifully, but beware those with clip parts you can't dry after. Ditto pen barrels with lever mechanisms that can rust.

[vintage penman]

Never put a Parker 61 writing unit in an ultrasonic unless you particularly want the little arrow to detach itself and disappear down the sink.

Dont ask.......

[John Jenkins]

I think ultrasonic can also remove some thin gold washes.

[JonSzanto]

Ouch, John! I didn't want to hear that!

So far I've only really used it for nib units (such as an Esterbrook) and nib/section units (later Sheaffers). And one of the prime reasons for asking was whether or not putting larger parts of pens in was a good idea. Still seems like as much patient, gentle and determined hand cleaning is the best way to go, most of the time.

[Jim B]

I think ultrasonic can also remove some thin gold washes.

Yup, forgot that one. definitely true.

[AltecGreen]

So here's a "when not to ultrasonic" moment from the show this weekend.

Can you spot the problem? You have to look carefully.

[JonSzanto]

Can you spot the problem? You have to look carefully.

It causes hair loss???

[AltecGreen]

Can you spot the problem? You have to look carefully.

It causes hair loss???

Quite possibly. But look closer.

[David Nishimura]

I wouldn't put cracked nibs in one either. Also caps with cracked lips. Also remember that many clips use parts which can rust so an ultrasonic may clean the inside of the cap beautifully, but beware those with clip parts you can't dry after. Ditto pen barrels with lever mechanisms that can rust.

To these cautions, I would add that it's a lot easier to put moisture into a cap than to dry it out, and that trapped moisture can lead to rapid staining and discoloration under certain circumstances. Ultrasonics are great for driving moisture into the tight gap between the cap and the inner cap, right where you really don't want it to be. And note that some pens have unusual inner cap construction. Wahl, for example, used a tubular inner cap resting against a softer rubber pad. The tubular part is hard rubber and pretty much nonreactive. The soft pad, however, will deteriorate like an old sac, and you really do not want to moisten it (it's the reason for the dark banding one so often sees on Wahl celluloid pen caps).

[AltecGreen]

Here's a close-up








BTW-Someone should have read David Nishimura's comments above before using the ultrasonic.

[JonSzanto]

Quite possibly. But look closer.

I've zoomed the photo as far in as I can go - Bert looks to be holding the body of a green/black pen, the other fellow has a cap that also has some white in it. Beyond that, I can't discern a thing. Do remember you are dealing with a relative novice here...

ETA: You added the second pic, and I can see it is two different pens (is that a Conklin non-Bert is holding?). I can't tell if Bert's pen is tapered like a desk pen, but I'm guessing *you* can tell the type of body material from the colors/pattern of the pens, but frankly I can't.

Are you by any chance referencing the clip on the (what I think is) Conklin?

Edited by JonSzanto, 09 October 2012 - 01:47 AM.

[AltecGreen]

I've zoomed the photo as far in as I can go - Bert looks to be holding the body of a green/black pen, the other fellow has a cap that also has some white in it. Beyond that, I can't discern a thing. Do remember you are dealing with a relative novice here...

ETA: You added the second pic, and I can see it is two different pens (is that a Conklin non-Bert is holding?). I can't tell if Bert's pen is tapered like a desk pen, but I'm guessing *you* can tell the type of body material from the colors/pattern of the pens, but frankly I can't.

Are you by any chance referencing the clip on the (what I think is) Conklin?

Both pens are Conklins. Good call on that one.


One more guess and I'll reveal the answer

[JonSzanto]

Ok, then focusing on non-Bert's pen: in the panorama of materials that pens are made of, some of the materials are solid, some are bands of various materials, and some have chunks of material all molded together and then formed (mostly by turning on a lathe?). Would I be looking at a situation where you don't want to immerse a pen body or barrel or cap in a US cleaner that is made up of these 'chunks', for fear that both moisture and/or vibration can penetrate infinitesimally small cracks and chinks and start a process of deconstruction (if you will)?

[AltecGreen]

Almost.


David Nishimura's comment is most apt in this situation. The two pens shown above started out life the same. Both were identical Conklin cream and black school pens.

Doug Berg was having a hard time getting the old ink out of the cap. He would flush but more blue inky water would come out. So he threw the cap in the ultrasonic and when the cap came out it was blue and black. So he threw the barrel in and managed to get a uniform coloring on barrel as well. So now the pen is a uniform blue and black and actually rather attractive.

We were having a bit of fun showing the 'new' pen to various pen people. On eBay, this would end up as a 'rare' protoype.

[JonSzanto]

David Nishimura's comment is most apt in this situation. The two pens shown above started out life the same. Both were identical Conklin cream and black school pens.

Doug Berg was having a hard time getting the old ink out of the cap. He would flush but more blue inky water would come out. So he threw the cap in the ultrasonic and when the cap came out it was blue and black. So he threw the barrel in and managed to get a uniform coloring on barrel as well. So now the pen is a uniform blue and black and actually rather attractive.

We were having a bit of fun showing the 'new' pen to various pen people. On eBay, this would end up as a 'rare' protoype.

Well, I gave it my best stab. Wish I could have seen it, but good to know these things happen to even those 'in the know'. Thanks, Ricky.

[Euro Vintage]

Never put a Parker 61 writing unit in an ultrasonic unless you particularly want the little arrow to detach itself and disappear down the sink.

Dont ask.......

Ouch !

"don't ask", so I won't

As someone had written many moons ago, wisdom comes from experience and.... experience comes from "don't ask"

Tri

[FarmBoy]

Doug's experiment demonstrates that most non-metallic man-made polymers are porous.

[Frank(Federalist Pens)]

Can you spot the problem? You have to look carefully.

It causes hair loss???

Quite possibly. But look closer.

I guess that explains it then!
I like the way I feel when I get out of it though!!

LOL!!

Edited by Frank L, 10 October 2012 - 01:58 AM.

[ac12]

This is an old thread, but I want to say that an Ultrasonic Cleaner (USC) CAN and WILL remove the gold plating from a gold plated nib.

I have deplated a few nibs myself, so I know this for a fact; one completely deplated, and 3 partially deplated.

• My theory is, IF the gold plating was not bonded well to the base metal, the USC would vibrate the plating loose and off. 
  The problem here is I don't know what plating is well bonded and what isn't.  I would suspect that the old plating is more likely to deplate than the newer stuff, but I am not about to deplate any more of my nibs to test this theory.

• A second idea is from a plated nib that I saw that was deplating from corrossion.  I could see the plating bloom like a flower around spots of old ink and corrossion.  In cases like that the gold plating is already damaged and ripe for being peeled off.

• Finally if the plated nib is in contact with the metal tank of the USC itself or maybe a HARD plastic basket, the friction/abrasion could wear through the thin plating.

 

If a gold colored nib is NOT clearly a gold nib, I presume (or ass-u-me) that it is plated.

My first option is to soak the nib, and let the water disolve the ink.  Soaking is slow, but better slow than sorry.

I am very cautious about cleaning a plated nib in an USC.  If a USC is neccessary, I use a few 1 min cycles, and inspect the nib after each cycle to check for evidence of deplating.  The idea is minimal use of the USC, then complete the cleaning by soaking.