23 replies to this topic

[catfish]

As I was about to post this, I saw Procyon's post on his beautiful silver and gold sleeve fillers, purchased on  Ebay....well done!

My pen was found at a country flea market a few days ago. I'm trying to decide whether to restore the pen myself (I have some experience) and keep it, or sell to someone else and let them have it restored. I certainly don't want to risk damaging it. If I decide to proceed myself, I would appreciate any advice on how I should proceed.

 

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[Procyon]

Nice pen!  You didn't show a picture of the opening, so I was wondering if the pressure bar is there. If so, it should be easy to restore, and probably will sell easier if it is restored. It looks like you probably don't need nib realignment, so a little flushing, a new sac, and light hand polishing should do the trick.

 

If it were me, I would keep it.  It's really a neat pen.

Edited by Procyon, 31 August 2014 - 06:18 PM.

[catfish]

Thanks for the reply Allan. Yes, the pressure bar is present...somewhat corroded but hopefully salvagable. Can you tell me if the section is threaded into the barrel?

 

Regards

 

Alf

 

 

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[Procyon]

As far as I know, Waterman never threaded their sections, except for eyedroppers.  My sleeve fillers are press fit, for sure, so I am pretty sure your pen is also.  Just make sure you use a bit of heat.  If it is difficult, soaking in water + ammonia for a brief time is okay - just watch that it doesn't start to brown. But always use heat. Waterman's are usually easy - you shouldn't have a problem.

[David Nishimura]

Heat, yes. I would not recommend soaking at all, though. If anything is holding the joint closed, it isn't going to be water-soluble.

 

Waterman sleeve-filler pressure bars usually hold up OK, but what typically corrodes into dust is the saddle link that connects the end of the bar with the bent wire anchor that holds the assembly in the barrel.

[Procyon]

Heat, yes. I would not recommend soaking at all, though. If anything is holding the joint closed, it isn't going to be water-soluble.

 

.......

 

I have to disagree.  A couple of days ago I had trouble opening a moss agate 94.  After a brief soaking, it came apart easily.  I also had to do that with a Conklin Nozac.   OK, those are celluloid barrels, but I am pretty sure I have had to do it with hard rubber barrels also. I usually don't soak them, but it sometimes helps.  You do have to be very careful with it. BTW, I use ammonia too - so it isn't just water.

[David Nishimura]

Fair enough -- sometimes there is some dried ink in there.

Still, I'd recommend wicking a very small amount of naphtha into the barrel-section joint, rather than soaking in an ammonia solution. The latter can discolor celluloid, particularly those with metallic inclusions.

[Procyon]

Ah ...  good suggestion!  I hadn't thought of that.  I will have to get some naphtha and keep on hand the next time it happens.  I did discolor one pen years ago when I forgot about it and left it soaking for about 5 days.  Luckily, it wasn't a very valuable pen. 

[catfish]

Thank you for the comments and advice Mark and David. I have decided to restore the pen although I may not do the work myself.

 

Regards

 

Alf

Edited by catfish, 02 September 2014 - 08:10 PM.

[catfish]

Thank you for the comments and advice Mark and David. I have decided to restore the pen although I may not do the work myself.

 

Regards

 

Alf

Edited by catfish, 02 September 2014 - 08:12 PM.

[catfish]

Thank you for the comments and advice Mark and David. I have decided to restore the pen although I may not do the work myself.

 

Regards

 

Alf

[Procyon]

Mark?

[catfish]

Mark?

Obviously I'm having a technically challenging afternoon! Triple posting AND calling a very helpful and highly regarded member of this board by the wrong name was not a good thing to do. My apologies Allan. 

 

Regards

 

Alf

[Procyon]

No worries, Alf.  Just thought it was kind of amusing. 

[Rick Krantz]

some (actually most) waterman ink vues are threaded. 

[Procyon]

some (actually most) waterman ink vues are threaded. 

 

Well, I wasn't very specific, but since we were talking sleeve-fillers, I was thinking of fairly old Waterman's.  Mid-30's is edging into modern times as far as I'm concerned.

[Rick Krantz]

 

some (actually most) waterman ink vues are threaded. 

 

Well, I wasn't very specific, but since we were talking sleeve-fillers, I was thinking of fairly old Waterman's.  Mid-30's is edging into modern times as far as I'm concerned.

 

I was laughing as I posted, thinking of all the responses I could get. you took it easy on me, and that was nice! 

 

I had an early ink vue that was slip section, real weird. 

 

Only reason I ultimately posted is that for that one person that reads this thread and then thinks its gospel and breaks one, can't say that they saw it here, that all waterman except eyedroppers are slip sections. we gave them warning. 

 

as a side note, the other month, I encountered a reverse thread conklin. In all my 28 years plus of pen collecting, it was my first reverse thread. go figure! 

[Procyon]

   Yep, I can see where you are coming from, Rick!  I suppose, if I ever encounter a reverse-thread Conklin, I will probably just break the hell out of it.  I have never encountered one myself.  I have recently become very interested in Nozacs, which are often pretty difficult to unscrew.  Which pen was it - BTW - a Nozac?

[Rick Krantz]

of all things, an early crescent filler, that I had several before just like it, all slip sections. 

[David Nishimura]

All the reverse-threaded Conklins are HR crescent-fillers. They bore an arrow imprint on the section to show which way to turn, though these can get erased through heat and polishing over the years. They are also peculiar in using a very fast multistart thread -- at least four start, more likely five or more.