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Waterman Lady Patricia Ink-Vue-Type I (2-pc barrel)

rubber washer yes or no??

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#1 Stuart07

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 08:36 AM

 I am restoring that model now - the one with 2-part barrel that separates. (my first of this kind) and noted a curious divergence of instructions from 2 well known experts about this pen.  Richard Binder advocates using a rubber washer next to the cone which attaches to the ink sac while Laurence Oldfield, in his book (2nd ed.) does not mention or show any washer at all...just the cone/nipple and threaded ring.

 

Is this a case of adding an additional layer of safety against leakage vs sufficient leak proofness with just the cone/nipple and threaded cap i.e. a simple difference of opinion/judgment between two highly experienced professionals?

 

I wonder what the opinions of others familiar with this pen think about this?

 

Thank you all,

Stuart07

 

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#2 pen-deco

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 02:56 PM

I have done (type 1) Ink Vue restorations. All of them with a rubber washer underneath the cone. When you disassembled the pen, did you remove the "floor" that the cone sat on top of? 

 

This a crucial step in sealing the pen against leakage and keeps the cone level. (which will be helpful when threading the ring back over top).

 

I don't own Laurence's book, so I can't tell you how he may explain this step. But, I can't imagine the pen would work too well without this seal under the conical-nipple piece.



#3 pen-deco

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 06:27 PM

Also, use a tiny tiny bit of silicone grease in the threaded ring to prevent the sac from twisting. 



#4 Stuart07

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 07:33 PM

Hey, that's great.  Oddly, no I do not see any washer in the ink barrel. I have removed the section and when I look up inside the empty barrel, all I see is what appears to be a very shiny flat surface with a glossy film around the edge I assume might be adhesive.  It would explain why my attempts (carefully applied, of course) to push up frim the bottom opening with a rod to push the cone up from underneath does not seem to work. Neither Binder or OLdfield say anything about a "floor" under the cone so I had no reason to expect such a thing to be there.  BUt if it is really there, and if it is glued in place, that would explain 2 things:

1-why the cone refuses to budge when I push up from beneath it...and

2-why Binder says to insert a rod into the cone from above from the top and press it to the side to unset it...seems dangerous to me to do that as it is ebonite and could crack with such lateral pressure. I wondered why he didn't just say to push it out from the bottom opening of the barrel.

 

I wonder how you managed to get the cone out of the barrel??

 

It makes no sense to me that either of these 2 men would intentionally omit crucial information like that, though...

 

So, how did you manage to get the cone/nipple out from the top end???

Stuart



#5 pen-deco

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 07:59 PM

Here's what I suggest. Apply small amounts of heat to the area around the nipple/cone piece. Use a probe to push the nippled piece to one side or another. Don't push from under or over. This side to side motion in my opinion is safest. What are you using for a probe? If you have wooden BBQ skewers around; break the tip off so that it's not sharp. Use that to probe the piece side to side.

 

Maybe this will help:

 

gallery_81908_441_263190.jpg



#6 Stuart07

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 08:31 PM

That is tremendously helpful.  Your diagram explains what I misunderstood. Binder's instructions are to insert the ;probe as far as possible into the  cone and then push to the side.  I assumed he meant to push the probe INTO the round opening of the nipple, and not to the SIDE of it as you clearly explain.  Of course, I wondered how the probe if his would fit inside the opening anyhow!  This explains that.  I will trythat. THANK YOU!!!

Stuart



#7 Stuart07

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 09:42 PM

One other thing, was the "floor" glued into place or just held by friction against the inner walls of the barrel?

Stuart



#8 pen-deco

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 11:42 PM

I don't recommend that shellac is used on any part of the Ink Vue side of this restoration. That doesn't mean that someone hadn't done that somewhere in you pen's history. I'm willing to bet that yours is is just hardened, by ink possibly… It should crack apart and you'll had to get all of the piece out.



#9 Stuart07

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 02:24 AM

The stuff at the edge is pretty clear looking...not likely ink.  However, perhaps it doesn't matter if the floor is glued into place. As long as it can be cleaned of debris, why would it be necessary to remove it from the barrel anyway, right?

 

BTW, I managed to remove the cone using your suggestions, thank you most kindly, good sir.  There is no indication of any kind of washer beneath it...just the "floor" .  Of course, that doesn't prove there wasn't a washer there when the pen was first built at the factory!! This is an extremely clean pen...no ink stains/spotting anywhere on the celluloid...just the typical surface micro scratches vintage pens normally have.

 

Stuart



#10 gweddig

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 10:12 PM

The ones I have done always had a rubber washer on the "floor". Sometimes it was hardened and very difficult to differentiate from the floor. As Richard says it is a sealing surface and I can't imagine it being very efficient without it.

 

Marshall & Oldfield (edition 2 & 3) do not mention the washer, I have a note on the Ink-Vue Mk I page about the size as a reminder.

 

--greg


Edited by gweddig, 08 October 2014 - 10:18 PM.






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