14 replies to this topic

[johnmc2]

I have just received a burgundy snorkel special in mint condition (externally) but I cannot get it apart.  I have successfully repaired two snorkels before, a Statesman and a PFM II.  

The nib unit unscrews easily, and the blind cap has also come off (I overturned it, and it unscrewed from the metal tube), the tube won't move at all.  

I can't get it to undo at the section/barrel joint: it unscrews very slightly (about 1/16 of a turn) but feels like it is jamming against the mechanism rather than just a sticky thread.  I've tried dry heat to no avail.  

I didn't pay much for it, and sending it off to be repaired overseas is not an option, does anyone have any suggestions for getting it apart?

Thanks in advance

John

[Widget]

I've had this problem and it was a rusted spring. I tried using a few drops of oil but when that didn't get things moving I used WD40 and that did the trick. Bought a new spring cleaned barrel out and after replacing sac O ring etc pen worked a treat. My pen was burgundy, although of course this must be coincidence. I've never had it with a black though.

[johnmc2]

I had wondered about using penetrating oil, but was worried it might affect the plastics.  In NZ the most common oil is CRC but I should be able to get WD40. 

Thanks Widget!

[Widget]

I started working on the spring as soon as I'd put it in. Got it out in less than 10 mins and then I washed the barrel out wuth washing up liquid and dried with kitchen roll. The pen suffered no damage. My spring was not badly corroded ,however, hence the short time to remove.

[D Armstrong]

Just as a too-late suggestion for future reference: use a mixture of 75% vinegar and 25% lime juice to remove rust. You can simply soak acrylic plastics like snorkels in it, and it will literally dissolve the rust away without any of the harmful chemicals found in WD-40 or other penetrating oil products.

 

The rust turns into to a black residue which can be simply wiped off with a cloth or cotton swab. This method removes oxidation by the process of chellation, and cleans corrosion off right down to the bare steel without the use of abrasives. If you warm the solution up first to about 80°F it will act much faster.

[johnmc2]

Thanks David

I may yet try this, as the WD40 has not made much difference, I can now unscrew it 1/4 turn!

[Widget]

My situation was slightly different insomuch as the filler extended but the spring was stuck in the barrel. I did try the vinegar but with lemon juice (I have a lemon tree) but it did not work. I was probably too impatient and didn't give it enough time.

[johnmc2]

It's come apart!  After several months of WD40 soaking I decided to apply some serious torque to it, and it unscrewed very nicely.  Spring is munted, so I have an order in with vintagepens for a replacement.  The pen is otherwise in mint condition so I should end up with a very nice example: it even has a box...

[Widget]

Glad the WD40 eventually worked. I have used it on several pens and none seemed to have suffered any harm. Of course I don't use on pens that are water shy like BHR and Casein because I wash off and dry pen thoroughly.

[johnmc2]

Yes, thanks for the idea.  I might try D Armstrong's lime juice idea on the spring as an experiment, although I seem to have converted most of this year's crop into lime pickle.  

[johnmc2]

I do like a happy ending.  This "cot case" has ended up a beautiful and functional, if completely ordinary, pen.  

David Nishimura's excellent spares and service made this all possible: thanks David!

 

 

[Widget]

I'm pleased you finally managed to get a functioning pen. After repairing at least 10 with a fair degree of success my last 2 would just not fill. In desperation I sent them to a pen pal of mine who specialises in repair of all things Sheaffer. He's superb at Vac Fills. Both needed new barrels. The first pen was not seating the O ring properly and the second had a barrel that was not perfectly round. I had never come across either of these problems before. By coincidence they were both black Statesmen. Put me off Snorkel repair. I will stick to Parker Vacs which I love doing,

[johnmc2]

Thanks Widget

With this last one, even after I had got everything working smoothly, it just wouldn't fill.  I eventually immersed the barrel and touchdown tube in water, and established that the blind cap seal was the problem.  Hardly surprising given the difficulty I had disassembling the thing!  A small amount of sealant has solved the problem.  

Thanks for your interest in, and helpful suggestions with, this vexing repair

John

Edited by johnmc2, 06 October 2015 - 06:32 AM.

[Widget]

I love trying to repair new (to me)filling systems. Today I repaired a later model MT Swan Leverless with a pressure bar. I'd never seen 1 before and got a shock when a pressure bar came out of the barrel. Fortunately I found instructions in my L & O repair book. What a fiddly job but I'm feeling very pleased with my self as the pen is now filling and writing well so if you ever need to repair 1 I'm your woman.

[johnmc2]

I serviced a late model leverless Blackbird last week, sounds like the same mechanism as yours. Much simpler to repair than the early MT leverless models. Oddly enough, the chap I sold it to didn't want the sac replaced, as he wanted to do it himself. Good on him!